Hawaii Big Island Experience – Part 1: Birthday

“Aside from all the nature-y stuff, what is there to do in Hawaii?” A friend of mine asked me this question as we were having brunch the Sunday I returned from my trip. I just looked at him for a second, not sure how to respond. That’s like asking, “Aside from their coffee, what is Starbucks known for?”

Since his inquiry, I’ve heard at least one other person say that Hawaii is overhyped. Maybe it is. Or maybe it’s a tropical paradise for those looking to escape the big city. I think it depends on what you’re looking for.

I’m not here to argue whether or not Hawaii deserves the praise and envy it receives. All I’m here to do is detail to you what my Big Island experience was like, then you can decide if you want to place it on your vacation list!

Day 0: Arrival

I arrived on the Big Island at around 6:30 pm local time on January 12^th. Of course, after traveling for fourteen hours that day, I was famished, jetlagged, and utterly exhausted. The muscles in my legs were tight and cramped – from the nine-hour economy flight from Dallas to Honolulu – and my back and shoulders ached from the heavy, overstuffed, carry-on luggage I held on either side.

There was a space reserved somewhere in the back of my mind to feel joy that I had finally made it to Hawaii, but in the forefront, I had a methodical list of everything I needed to do before I could relax.

Find baggage claim, get my suitcase, find car rental, find cousin’s address in my phone, drive to cousin’s house…

I was riding down the escalator, thinking these thoughts, not really seeing what was in front of me, when I heard a sweet and familiar voice call my name, “Heather!”

I snapped to attention, and there she was! My cousin, Celica, here to greet me at the airport! I was not expecting that at all because I specifically told her that since I had a car rental, I wouldn’t need to be picked up! This being the first time I saw her in over ten years, I ran to hug her, and my fatigue practically vanished! She put a flower necklace around my neck and introduced me to her husband and son – just a week shy of one-year-old.

“Don’t worry about anything, Heather, we’ll direct you!”

“I didn’t even know you were going to be here!” I said, still overwhelmed.

“I know! We wanted to surprise you!”

Celica made a common airport routine that much more enjoyable just by showing up and guiding me through the process. I guess the Hawaiian generosity and hospitality has rubbed off on her during the eight years that she’s been on the island.

Two hours later, as we sat eating homemade, Italian style pizza and catching up, I was finally able to relish in the moment. I’m here with my family on the beautiful island of Hawaii, and it’s going to be an awesome nine days.

Day 1: Birthday

January 13^th is my birthday, and I knew exactly what I wanted to do on the Big Island. I had planned this day over a month in advance, ever since I created my makeshift itinerary for Hawaii. I was going to jump off the cliff at South Point, and hike the trail to Green Sand Beach.

South Point is the southern most point in the United states. I had never been cliff diving before, but I’m not one to shy away from adrenaline inducing activities. I packed up my car and drove for an hour to South Point, but not before I made a breakfast stop on the way.

Getting a loco moco at Café 100 was certainly on my Hawaii list, but seeing as Café 100 (in Hilo) was in the exact opposite direction from South Point, I figured I could kill two birds with one stone by trying a loco moco, and visiting America’s southern most restaurant at Hana Hou.

A loco moco is a simple dish composed of rice, a beef patty, gravy and a fried egg. I’m not much of a meat eater, but I’m a sucker for rice and gravy, and who doesn’t like a fried egg? I figured I could easily burn off this meal with all the hiking I’d be doing later.

The loco moco, a Hawaiian favorite, was tasty and satisfying; just what you’d expect from the combination of these common ingredients. One item crossed off the list!

Once I stepped out of my car at South Point, I could immediately felt the forceful ocean wind, which only got stronger as I approached the cliff. In addition to that, the clouds above my head were a mixture of grey and white, meaning it was a coin’s toss whether the weather would turn to rain or shine within the next few hours.

As I walked on the solid black stones of volcanic rock, inching closer to the edge to see the relentless waves crashing the cliff dozens of feet below me, I remembered the wise words that I read weeks prior on a site when I was researching the Big Island:

It is safe to jump off the cliff at South Point as long as the weather is clear and the water is calm. If in doubt, do not jump.

Watching the spectacular, roaring waves once again, I nodded to myself and decided that safety comes first. It would have been so cool to get a video clip of myself cliff diving in Hawaii for the first time. But you know what would not have been cool? A rescue team pulling my lifeless body out of the water.

I instead walked along the cliff and admired the profile of the island; gazed at the distinct separation of blues as the ocean greeted the sky at the horizon. I kept heading east, maneuvering over the jagged rocks and occasionally sitting at the edge to marvel at the shore and view the tiny sea creatures, like crabs and snails, that snipped at the moss on the stones. The experience was therapeutic and soul healing. What a privilege it was to spend my birthday away from the noise of the city, instead listening to the music of nature.

I must have spent about two hours at South Point before I returned to my car to drive to the Green Sand Beach parking. Green Sand Beach is not accessible via normal vehicles. Only authorized jeeps and trucks can make the drive. So my options to get there were either by taking an hour long hike, or by paying a shuttle $10 to take me there. I already knew that I was going to hike it. What else did I bring my trusty Nike tennis shoes for?

The hike to Green Sand Beach is a little over two and a half miles, but it crosses rocky and uneven terrain. There are several trails that diverge and converge, but as long as you keep the ocean on your right, you can’t get lost.

I wouldn’t say the hike was hard, but it might have been more fun with a hiking buddy. I kept a steady pace that was faster than a normal walk, but not quite a jog, and frequently checked my watch, wondering how much more I had to go. The hike felt long, but it did take me almost exactly a full hour.

Every once in a while, I saw a shuttle pass by with the people cheering me on, offering me encouragement, putting a smile on my face. There were also other hikers that I’d catch up with, or who’d pass me, so it didn’t feel like I was out there alone.

The wind did not let up; in fact, it seemed to get stronger, spraying salty ocean droplets onto my skin, even when I was hundreds of feet away from the shore. It really is quite a hike to remember, and I’m glad I did it at least once.

Arriving at Green Sand Beach is such a triumph after walking the terrain for so long. The beach looks like a crater carved out of the mountain. You creep closer to the edge to see the artistically jagged rocks as they cascade down to the shore, where the waters push and pull at the coast with tenacity. One misstep here, and you’ll tumble to your end.

I walk around to the widest opening through the rocks and carefully make my way down the steep hill of sand and stone. When I pick a spot to sit down on the olive-green sand, only then can I relax, take a breath, and say “I made it. I hiked to Green Sand Beach. One of the four green sand beaches in the world, and I’m here on my birthday.” Life is good.

I stayed at Green Sand Beach for about an hour. The winds were vehemently passionate, making the atmosphere chilly and blowing sand around so much that it stung my skin. I also didn’t do any swimming other than wading knee deep in the water. Although I did see others swimming, the waves looked just a bit too violent for me to get deep into it, especially considering the fatigue I was feeling from the hike I just came from.

I sat on Green Sand Beach, keeping the sand out of my hair, and relished in the view until I packed up, took one last shot from above, and started on the hike back.

Except I didn’t.

“I’m not doing that hike again.” I told myself. “I already got my bragging rights, I’ve got nothing to prove.” I felt no shame in taking a shuttle back to the parking lot, turning the hour-long hike into a bumpy, twenty minute ride on the back of a pickup truck. I was so thankful for the ride, I even tipped the driver (not sure if that’s usual or expected, but I just wanted to show my appreciation).

On my way back to Celica’s house, I stopped by Punalu’u Bake Shop, rightfully called the Southern Most Bakery in the USA, and picked up some sweets, including malasadas – which I didn’t realize at the time is a Hawaiian delicacy – and coconut bread pudding. They really hit the spot, seeing as it was late afternoon, and the last proper meal I had was the loco moco for breakfast. I didn’t want to get too full though, because I knew my cousin Celica made birthday dinner reservations that evening, and I fully intended to pig out!

I munched on my sweets and drove the hour back to Volcano Hawaii, with only minutes to spare to freshen up before heading out again. Celica, her husband Chris, their little one Camden and I had a nice peaceful dinner at the Kilauea Lodge & Restaurant, which is a fancy crib if I do say so myself. It was such a wonderful way to end a unique birthday, with family, good food, and on one of Earth’s most beautiful destinations.

I stayed on Hawaii for nine days, starting with my birthday, and I’m eager to take you with me as I recount my experience! For the rest of my adventure, keep a look out for my next post! It would be a sin to cram the entire experience all into one, don’t you think?

Stay positive, have faith, and fight for the things you desire in life.

Until the next one,

Cheers!

Bonus Content!

View my vlog on the the first two days on the Big Island!